Hakone - A Journey Through History and Spirituality | MK Deep Dive

Ashinoko Lake: A Crater of Beauty and Mystery

Located within the caldera of the Hakone volcano, Ashinoko Lake (芦ノ湖, Ashi-no-ko) offers a stunning view, with its still waters reflecting Mount Fuji on clear days. Formed about 3,100 years ago by volcanic activity, the lake has long been considered a site of spiritual power and natural beauty.

For centuries, locals believed Ashinoko possessed mystical energy, a sacred place where nature and the divine meet. Today, it remains a popular retreat for visitors seeking scenic views, famous hot springs, and historical landmarks. Traditional ryokan inns (旅館, ryokan) line its shores, providing a timeless connection to Japan’s hospitality tradition.

The most sacred site is Hakone Shrine (箱根神社, Hakone Jinja), a Shinto shrine at the base of Mount Hakone. A local saying states, "There are no hot springs where you can see Mount Fuji." Still, in 1966, the discovery of Ashinoko Onsen (芦ノ湖温泉, Ashi-no-ko Onsen) challenged this, drawing geothermal waters from Yunohanazawa Onsen (湯花沢温泉, Yunohanazawa Onsen).

"Ashinoko" means "Lake of Reeds"—芦 (ashi, "reed") and 湖 (ko, "lake"). Surrounded by lush forests, the shoreline attracts hikers seeking peace in nature. Those preferring water can cross the lake on sightseeing boats, some shaped like historic pirate ships, adding a touch of adventure to the tranquil scenery.

Framed lake Ashinoko, framed by Fuji’s majestic silhouette, is more than just a scenic retreat—it serves as a gateway into Japan’s spiritual and historical heritage.

Hakone Shrine: A Sanctuary of Spiritual Energy

For more than 1,200 years, Hakone Shrine has served as a pilgrimage site, with its ancient cedar-lined paths guiding countless travelers, warriors, and rulers seeking protection, guidance, and prosperity. Historically, shogun and samurai prayed here for safe journeys, trusting that the shrine’s deities watched over them.

Today, visitors walk the same stone steps beneath towering trees, passing through multiple torii gates (鳥居, torii)—each a symbolic threshold into the sacred space. The first gate is located near Motohakone Port (元箱根港, Motohakone Kō), the second at the shrine entrance, and the fourth at the foot of the stairway leading to the main shrine sanctum

A Place of Blessings and Legends

Hakone Shrine is revered for its divine power in:

• Granting wishes and prosperity

• Warding off misfortune

• Ensuring road safety

• Blessing relationships and matchmaking

In particular, Kuzuryu Shrine (九頭龍神社, Kuzuryū Jinja)—one of three Hakone shrines—is dedicated to matters of the heart. Visiting both Hakone Shrine and Kuzuryu Shrine is called Ryosha Mairi (両社参り, Ryōsha Mairi), while adding Hakone Motomiya Shrine (箱根元宮, Hakone Motomiya Jinja) completes Sansha Mairi (三社参り, Sansha Mairi), believed to bring even greater blessings.

The shrine’s most enduring legend tells of Mangan Shonin, a Buddhist monk who pacified the nine-headed dragon that once terrorized the lake’s villages. Through his prayers and rituals, the creature was transformed into a protective deity, forever enshrined within Hakone’s sacred landscape.

Over the centuries, Hakone Shrine attracted figures such as Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, Minamoto no Yoritomo, and Tokugawa Ieyasu, cementing its role as a guardian of the Kanto region. Once called Hakone Gongen (箱根権現), the shrine’s influence remains strong today, welcoming nearly 20 million visitors annually.

The Peace Torii: A Symbol of Resilience

Perhaps Hakone Shrine’s most iconic sight is the Heiwa no Torii (平和の鳥居, Heiwa no Torii), or Peace Torii, which rises from the waters of Lake Ashi.

Built in 1952, the gate commemorates the signing of the San Francisco Peace Treaty, which formally ended Japan’s imperial role and restored its sovereignty. A plaque inscribed with the kanji for "peace"—added in 1964 during the Tokyo Olympics—was penned by Prime Minister Yoshida Shigeru (吉田茂, Yoshida Shigeru), one of Japan’s postwar architects. Interestingly, the plaque is only visible from the lake, making it a secret symbol for those aboard sightseeing ships.

The Peace Torii stands as a silent testament to resilience, its vermillion frame rising from the waters like a beacon of harmony. Visitors flock to capture its striking reflection against the lake—a fleeting, yet powerful reminder of Japan’s journey through history.

The Deities of Hakone Shrine

Hakone Shrine enshrines the Hakone Okami (箱根大神, Hakone Okami), three Shinto deities revered for their prosperity, protection, and connection to Mount Fuji:

• Ninigi-no-Mikoto (瓊瓊杵尊, Ninigi-no-Mikoto): Grandson of Amaterasu (天照, Amaterasu), the sun goddess. He brought rice cultivation to Japan, ensuring bountiful harvests and prosperity.

• Konohanasakuya-hime (木花之開耶姫, Konohanasakuya-hime): Goddess of volcanoes and beauty, closely linked to Mount Fuji. She protects women, childbirth, and fertility while warding off fires and natural disasters.

• Hoori-no-Mikoto (火遠理命, Hoori-no-Mikoto): Son of Ninigi and Konohanasakuya-hime, a deity of prosperity, business success, and maritime safety.

Each deity reflects Hakone’s deep ties to nature, history, and human ambition.

The Legend of the Nine-Headed Dragon

Before the shrine, before the torii, before the roads leading here, Hakone was a land of fire, water, and spirits.

A legend tells of a monstrous nine-headed dragon that once dwelled in Lake Ashinoko. The beast demanded child sacrifices, terrorizing the nearby villages.

Mangan Shonin, a wandering Buddhist priest, confronted the dragon. Through prayer and ritual, he subdued the creature, binding it to the depths of the lake. Over time, the dragon was transformed into Kuzuryu Myojin, a guardian spirit associated with water, weather, and protection.

Mangan built a shrine to the newly reformed deity, replacing the gruesome human offerings with steamed rice and beans—a ritual still practiced in ceremonies today.

To this day, visitors can still see Kuzuryu Shrine, standing as a reminder of the balance between chaos and harmony, destruction and redemption.

Hakone: Where History and Spirituality Meet

Hakone is not just a destination—it is an experience.

From the sacred waters of Ashinoko to the towering torii gates, from the echoes of samurai prayers to the whispers of ancient gods, Hakone exists at the intersection of history, spirituality, and natural wonder.

Whether seeking tranquility, adventure, or divine blessings, one thing remains certain—Hakone calls to those who are willing to listen.

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Hakone is more than a destination—it’s an experience, a threshold between past and present, myth and reality. Whether you're gazing into the enigmatic waters of Lake Ashi, uncovering ancient stories at Hakone Shrine, or indulging in a quiet moment over coffee with a view, MK

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