Top 5 Hitsumabushi Restaurants in Nagoya: Where Ritual Meets Flavor
- M.R. Lucas
- Mar 27
- 3 min read
Updated: Nov 12
The first time I ate hitsumabushi, I didn’t know there were rules. I was in Nagoya, exhausted from a long train ride, and ordered it on impulse—unagi over rice. I thought I understood what was coming. But what arrived was something much more intentional. A wooden tub of rice, a fan of shiny eel, a tray of side dishes arranged like tools in a box: wasabi, scallion, nori, a pot of dashi. A quiet message embedded in the meal itself—slow down.
This dish, originating from the back alleys of post-Meiji banquets, invites you to enjoy it in four ways. First, eat it plain, letting the tamari-glazed eel stand on its own, with crisp edges and a sweet, smoky flavor. Next, add condiments—scatter wasabi, fold in the seaweed, and experience the shift. Third, pour broth over it, transforming it into chazuke, where the flavors soften and mingle. Finally, choose your preferred version. You can return to whichever one resonated most with you. That’s what I love—the freedom built into the form.
Hitsumabushi is different from unagi-don in the same way that memory is different from nostalgia. This isn’t just about taste—it’s about rhythm, timing, and control—a personal ritual. The eel itself, grilled kabayaki-style over charcoal, carries history in every bite. Aichi’s farms supply much of Japan’s eel, and Nagoya—especially spots like Atsuta Horaiken and Ibasho—became the birthplace of its elevated form.
Some say it was a way to salvage broken bowls after banquets. Others believe it started as a cook’s solution for uneven cuts—chop them small, scatter them wide, and turn leftovers into something generous. Like all great food traditions, the truth is probably a mix of both.
What’s certain is this: if you want to experience Nagoya through your palate, this is where you should start. Below are the top five places in the city to enjoy hitsumabushi at its best, not just as a dish, but as a quiet ceremony. Come hungry. Leave changed.
Shirakawa doesn’t make noise—it just gets it right. The cuts are clean, and the flavor stays consistent. If you want to see how Nagoya enjoys eel at its best, this is the place to start.
Quietly elegant, Unafuji Shirakabe Bettei serves hitsumabushi with a sense of occasion. The room feels hushed, and the flavors are confident. Tradition isn’t just preserved—it’s honored.
High up in the Dai Nagoya Building, Bincho stays true to traditional roots. Charcoal, patience, and eel that speaks for itself. A steady hand in the heart of the city.
Fifth floor, no fanfare. Maruya delivers. Loved by locals, respected by travelers —it’s a place that stays focused: authentic hitsumabushi, no shortcuts.
Since 1873, Horaiken has been setting the standard. They didn’t just perfect the dish—they helped create it. Everything here is prepared with care, down to the grain. This is the kind of place where craftsmanship speaks louder than history books.
Let MK Be Your Guide to the Depths of Nagoya’s Culinary Tradition
Hitsumabushi is more than just a local specialty—it’s a story told in four steps, an edible ritual crafted through fire, patience, and precision. Each bite reflects the quiet craftsmanship of Aichi’s eel farms, the legacy of post-Meiji innovation, and the understated elegance of Nagoya itself. You don’t just eat hitsumabushi—you follow its rhythm.
But the soul of Nagoya doesn’t end at the table. From the sacred stillness of Atsuta Jingu to the modern grandeur of Oasis 21, from narrow alleyway izakaya to broad, tree-lined boulevards—MK invites you to experience the city through all five senses, with grace and intention.
Travel in the comfort of MK’s Rolls-Royce Ghost Series II EWB, where tradition and refinement meet at every turn. Let those who truly know the city lead you through the subtle, the storied, and the sublime.