MK Deep Dive: Chikubushima Island — Where the Sun, Moon, and Spirits Meet

M.R. Lucas
Apr 25
2 min read

In the north of Lake Biwa, a two-kilometer island floats like a vision from another age—veiled in mist, myth, and memory. Chikubushima, known since ancient times as “the Island of the gods,” has long been considered a power spot—a place where the qi flows strong, where energies converge and something more than scenery lingers in the air. It's not superstition. It's legacy. For over 1,300 years, pilgrims, poets, and seekers have crossed the waters in search of peace, revelation, and a glimpse beyond.

Island with dense greenery and several traditional buildings. Blue sky above, clear water below, with boats docked at the shore. Serene mood. — Photo: z tanuki / CC BY 3.0

The island is home to Hōgon-ji, temple number 30 on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage (a revered circuit of 33 Kannon temples across western Japan). Founded in 724 when Emperor Shōmu ordered the monk Gyōki to establish it following a divine vision from Amaterasu, the sun goddess, it was promised that those who came with faith would be granted peace, abundant harvests, and happiness.

People descend red-railed stairs towards a sunlit ocean, with red banners displaying Japanese text. Trees and buildings are in the foreground. — Photo: Brakeet / Public Domain (CC0 1.0)

At the heart of Hōgon-ji’s worship is Benzaiten—goddess of music, eloquence, and fortune. This makes Chikubushima one of the Three Great Benzaiten Temples in Japan, alongside Enoshima and Itsukushima. The temple’s vivid reds, curving eaves, and steep stone steps create an atmosphere thick with reverence and old-world beauty. Worshippers still crowd the halls, their prayers echoing down to the shores.

A person in traditional attire plays a stringed instrument, surrounded by a green dragon. Kanji text appears on the left. The mood is mythical. — Benzaiten (Goddess of Music and Good Fortune) Seated on a White Dragon

Also on the island is Tsukubusuma Shrine, a Shinto sanctuary whose main hall is designated a National Treasure. Built with materials salvaged from the original Osaka Castle before its destruction in World War II, it is a rare architectural palimpsest—one foot in history, the other in myth.

Japanese shrine with stone steps and torii gate. Purple drapery adorns the entrance. Green trees and blue sky create a serene setting. — Photo: Brakeet / Public Domain (CC0 1.0)

Toss a small clay kawarake dish from the edge of the shrine and make a wish—if it sails cleanly through the torii gate perched on a distant rock, legend says your wish will be granted. Or bring home a tiny daruma doll from Hōgon-ji—less for prayers, more as a reminder that mystery still lingers in unexpected places.

Stone statue of a serene figure holding a lotus, set against pine branches. The statue has intricate details and a calm expression. — Photo: Chris Gladis / CC BY 2.0

Even the arts remember this place. “Chikubushima”, a classical noh song, praises the island’s sacred harmony between land and water, sun and moon, god and human.

Noh performance on stage with actors in traditional costumes. A man stands center, others seated around him, all in elaborate robes. Dimly lit. — Stage performance of the Noh play Chikubushima, 1943

It takes only 30 minutes by ferry to reach Chikubushima, but it offers far more than a day trip. It offers a liminal pause. A moment of silence between the modern and the eternal. Whether you’re a spiritual seeker, a cultural anthropologist, or just someone craving something ancient and real, the island is waiting.

Boats docked at a peaceful harbor under a sunny sky; people walk along the pier. Lush greenery surrounds the bright blue water. — Photo: Brakeet / Public Domain (CC0 1.0)

Let MK Be Your Guide to the Sacred Waters of Shiga

Part of MK’s curated Shiga itineraries, a visit to Chikubushima offers more than temples and torii—it’s a spiritual crossing. With your private English-speaking driver-guide and seamless ferry transfer from Lake Biwa’s northern shore, the experience is smooth from start to shrine. Arrive in quiet comfort, depart with something more than memories.