Koko-en — Fondness for the Old | MK Deep Dive

M.R. Lucas
Sep 16
2 min read

Serene Japanese garden with a pond reflecting trees and rocks. A small wooden gazebo is nestled among lush greenery under a clear blue sky.

In peaceful contrast to the towering white heron of Himeji Castle, Koko-en Garden offers a refuge where nature renews the spirit. Beneath wooden bridges, koi glide through still waters. Seasonal flowers emit fragrances that rejuvenate the soul, while the murmur of waterfalls invites visitors into reverie. Spread across 33,000 square meters, nine gardens unfold with precise care—each a meditation on harmony, each a moment where time slows down and a more profound stillness emerges.

Though it only opened in 1992 to commemorate the centennial of Himeji City, Koko-en feels timeless. This faithful recreation of Edo-period aesthetics transcends mere simulacrum, blurring the boundary between past and present. Unsurprisingly, it often appears in period dramas, its paths lined with cultural assets and architectural details that anchor it in history.

Tranquil Japanese garden with a pond, rocks, and lush greenery. A stone lantern stands by water, under a clear, sunny sky.

Koko-en was built on the former site of the castle’s western residence, once home to the retainers of Honda Tadamasa, daimyo of Himeji and keeper of the castle under the Tokugawa shogunate. The nine gardens were designed under the guidance of Professor Hajime Nakamura of Kyoto University, who drew inspiration from the surrounding forest and incorporated excavated passageways discovered before construction began. Teahouses dot the grounds, where visitors can sip matcha in ceremony while watching time slip away.

Room with tatami mats overlooks a serene Japanese garden through large windows. A small table holds a bowl and plate, creating a calm vibe.

Each garden emphasizes a different theme—bamboo groves, pine forests, or flowering landscapes. In spring, cherry blossoms reveal their fleeting beauty; in autumn, fiery maples light up the horizon. Traditional architecture complements these natural displays: wooden walkways and Tsuji-bei earthen walls with tiled roofs, offering shade in summer and shelter in rain. No matter the time of year, the gardens reflect Japan’s four seasons, presenting a landscape always in dialogue with impermanence.

Autumn scene in a Japanese garden with vivid red, orange, and yellow maple trees. Stone lantern and path enhance tranquility.

Within the grounds lies Kassui-ken, a restaurant serving traditional dishes that harmonize with the setting. Dining here, it’s easy to imagine the Edo era unfolding around you, with kimono-clad figures moving through the peaceful air of a Pax-Tokugawa afternoon.

Two people in traditional Japanese attire hold parasols, standing on a stone path in a lush garden. The mood is serene and elegant.

Koko-en invites a slower pace. Hands clasped behind your back, you might find yourself strolling free of distractions, detached from the anxieties of the modern world. Within its walls, dopamine resets, devices fade into irrelevance, and your God-given rhythm returns. As the name suggests—好古園, “a fondness for the old”—this is a place to remember, reflect, and let the past guide your present.