MK Deep Dive: Ishiyama-dera — Where Literature Was Born and Gold Was Found

M.R. Lucas
1 day ago
3 min read

A person in a yellow shirt ascends steps toward a traditional Japanese temple surrounded by lush green trees and rocks under a cloudy sky.

In my less cultured years—addicted to the neon chaos of Japan’s city life and the dopamine drip of modernity—I was known to say, “If you’ve seen one temple, you’ve seen them all.” I cringe now. Six years removed from that mindset and having swallowed my share of humble pie, I’ve come to understand that every temple in Japan holds a unique story—if you’re willing to pry around the edges. One of the deepest joys of MK Deep Dives has been rediscovering these sacred mysteries. I still remember the moment that shifted everything: standing in front of an unassuming temple in Tokyo when my brother asked, “I wonder who built this—and why?”

That question led me here.

Temple complex surrounded by lush green trees, people walking on stone paths, and traditional Japanese architecture visible. Peaceful atmosphere.

Ishiyama-dera is no ordinary temple. Nestled along the banks of the Seta River, overlooking expansive Lake Biwa and only 30 minutes from Kyoto, it is the birthplace of The Tale of Genji—considered the world’s first novel. Murasaki Shikibu, a lady-in-waiting in the 11th century, found her muse here beneath the full moon, her imagination ignited during a night of Heian-era solitude. That spark became 54 chapters and over 800 waka poems, a literary masterwork that would crown her as Japan’s Shakespeare.

Bring a notebook—this place has a way of shaking loose the stories trapped inside you.

The temple complex sprawls across a hillside, its crimson and russet momiji in autumn and delicate sakura in spring painting the forest in shifting tones of reverence. Wooden walking sticks are offered to visitors by kind attendants near the entrance—your staff for a Tolkien-like literary pilgrimage into the misty groves. The scent of old stone, moss, and incense trails behind you as you ascend to the temple halls, some of which seem carved directly into the mountain itself.

Autumn leaves surround traditional white paper lanterns with black text, creating a serene atmosphere. Soft green leaves are also visible.

Founded in 747 by the monk Roben—who also established Todai-ji in Nara—this temple owes its existence to both spiritual perseverance and miraculous timing. Roben had been tasked by Emperor Shōmu, the 45th emperor of Japan, to pray for gold to complete the massive Great Buddha statue at Todai-ji. After failed attempts at other sites, Roben received a metaphysical vision from Zao Gongen, the syncretic mountain deity of Shugendō. The vision urged him to move his prayers to the stone plateau of Ishiyama.

A temple interior with ornate altars, candles, and decorative items. White and red curtains and gold accents create a serene atmosphere.

There, Roben worshipped before a sacred statue of Prince Shōtoku, entrusted by the emperor himself. Not long after, gold was discovered in the far north (modern-day Tōhoku), making the completion of the Great Buddha possible. When Roben’s mission ended, the statue of the prince refused to be moved—no matter how many tried. Interpreting this as divine will, a shrine was built around it. Over time, that shrine grew into the Ishiyama-dera we see today.

Today, the temple is also known as the 13th stop on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, a revered 33-temple circuit dedicated to the Bodhisattva of Compassion. Pilgrims in white robes and straw hats, clutching their prayer books, are a common sight depending on the season. Some walk the full course by foot, retracing the paths of the ancients. Others arrive by train or car—or maybe with MK—to leave a stamp in their book, a prayer in their heart, and perhaps a burden on the altar.

A woman in traditional attire sits on a balcony overlooking a serene lake with boats and distant mountains under a full moon. Japanese text visible.

During the Heian period, pilgrims would often stay overnight. It was on such a night, during a full moon, that Murasaki Shikibu looked out over Lake Biwa from her lodging. That moment would become immortalized in the “Autumn Moon at Ishiyama,” one of the iconic “Eight Views of Ōmi” woodblock prints. And in that moonlit stillness, the seed of Genji was planted. And if you arrive on a full moon, pause. The light that struck Murasaki’s soul may still be waiting—just behind the clouds.

Beneath the dawn’s crisp breath—

Fresh air whispers through old cedars,

Stress dissolves in rustling trees,

Melting into stone-path calm—

Ancient gardens bloom in serenity.

Let MK Guide You Through Japan’s Living Poetry

Every stone holds a story at Ishiyama-dera, where golden prayers once funded a colossal Buddha and moonlight gave birth to the world’s first novel. Let MK walk with you through this hillside temple—where literary sparks still flicker, and silence speaks volumes.