Enoura Observatory: A Modern Portal to Ancient Reflection

The Enoura Observatory (江之浦測候所), designed by well-known artist and architect Hiroshi Sugimoto (杉本博司), functions as a visionary space that blends modern art, ancient traditions, and natural beauty. Located in Odawara City (小田原市), about 70 miles west of Tokyo, the observatory overlooks Sagami Bay (相模湾) from a quiet hilltop. Sugimoto’s creation shows his belief that reconnecting with the old practice of watching the skies can help guide humanity toward a deeper understanding of the future.

Finished after a decade of planning and building, the observatory blends traditional architectural styles with modern art and design. The complex includes a 15th-century Zen entrance gate, Meigetsu-mon (明月門), which holds spiritual meaning through its preserved materials, and a carefully raked rock garden. Every stone and pebble is placed with purpose, reflecting traditions from the Heian period (平安時代). Artifacts like the cornerstone of a seven-story pagoda struck by lightning and moss-covered boulders from private collections contribute to the site’s deep atmosphere.

The centerpiece of the observatory is the Winter Solstice Light Worship Tunnel (冬至光道トンネル), a 70-meter architectural marvel aligned with the Earth’s axis. At sunrise on the winter solstice, natural light floods the tunnel, awakening primal human memories. Similarly, the Summer Solstice Light Worship Tunnel (夏至光道トンネル), stretching 100 meters, channels sunlight into the Hall of Reflection (反射光の間) through floor-to-ceiling windows. These tunnels also serve as platforms overlooking the Mikan grove and Sagami Bay, creating moments of transcendence.

The Roman theater-inspired stage offers a wide view of the bay, with every part carefully aligned to the earth’s movement. Hidden paths lead to a Shinto shrine dedicated to a tutelary deity from Nara’s Kasuga Grand Shrine (春日大社), strengthening a connection to Japan’s spiritual and cultural heritage.

Enoura Observatory is not only an architectural feat but also a showcase of Japanese history and philosophy. Visitors are invited to sit on fossil wood benches, pass by stone Buddha statues, and breathe in the ocean air while contemplating the connection between nature, light, and human existence.

Sugimoto’s vision blends time, art, and spirituality, creating a gateway to Japan’s ancient history while encouraging modern reflection. The observatory is a peaceful space for those seeking deeper cultural understanding and a stronger connection to the natural world.

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